When the culture of tea plugs into the lives we lead today with our always switched-on collection of gadgetry, is the tea drinking experience enhanced or marginalized? Lately, as the growth of tea houses follows the winding path that coffee houses have had a lot of experience in shaping, the matter of whether to have WiFi (“wireless fidelity, wireless internet”) Internet access has mostly been assumed a given. Your coffee shop, grocery store, baker, fast-food restaurant, library, hospital, and hotel all have WiFi Internet access, so how could your tea house not?
Drinking tea is almost always a companion activity – we drink it while we are doing something else. Tea enhances the other things we are doing and, perhaps to our loss, rarely gets our full attention. Like many other drinks we imbibe, tea either acts as a social elixir enjoyed with others in a communal setting or helps bring a monk-like focus to whatever is absorbing our interest. For those who have an historical interest in tea, reading accounts of the slower-paced habits of tea drinkers in the past brings on feelings of time-envy, the sheer luxury of experiencing a few uninterrupted hours with a couple of pots of tea. Can you imagine?
Maybe we romanticize historical associations with tea too much. Tea and reading a book or newspaper, engaging in something artistic, or writing the next novel have merit, but what about drinking tea while sitting at a computer (with free WiFi)? Is it just a passive distraction? What about reading a “book” on a laptop or tablet, or producing creative work on a computer while drinking tea? Yet shouldn’t there be a distinction between how we enjoy tea in public vs. in private that embraces the communal spirit of a tea house rather than tries to recreate our alone time at home? Frequently, WiFi is seen as one of the prime culprits in foiling a more social setting in tea and coffee houses in these connected times.
WiFi – always there, always on – is truly remarkable. Yet despite the promises of entire cities having free WiFi connectivity for all, those days do not appear to be on the horizon anytime soon for most communities. The WiFi providers outside the home or office have become individual establishments who provide WiFi connectivity for free because it supports their mission. During the past couple of years, many food and retail businesses, particularly coffee houses, have begun to question this assumption. Cyber squatters, who remain camped at tables for hours nursing a single cup of coffee or tea, have become problematic. In reaction, some coffee houses have begun pulling the plug on WiFi, partially or completely.
For some establishments, it is strictly a question of business economics – too many seats are being taken up by WiFi users and the number of sales per hour or table turn is too low to support the business, even though when you visit the shop it always seems full. Other shops are trying a more temperate approach, leaving the WiFi available during off-hours and switching it off during peak periods when seating is at a premium – a compromise that sounds good in theory, but can get tricky in practice. What if after completely or partially turning off the WiFi, customers are still lingering too long? Stop the use of smartphones? No tablet movie watching? No books more than 100 pages?
Although followed by only a few so far, there is also a third way. Some coffee and tea houses who used to offer WiFi, but now choose not to, have decided they want to provide a safe haven from a world that has become connected 24/7. Like the designated quiet car on some train services, these shops are deliberately trying to make their environment more attuned to drinking coffee and tea, to conversations, to the experience of the moment. New trend? Why not go with a friend to your local tea or coffee house and talk about it, face to face, uninterrupted, and then decide.
Interesting article Guy. Never thought of it this way :)
I don’t believe Wifi is a threat to enjoying a cuppa. I mean if you go to a tea house with company you seldom use the Wifi anyway (or even better never use Wifi in such cases), but if you feel like enjoying a cup of tea alone in such an atmosphere, then Wifi would we welcomed, from my perspective anyway. Of course, there are implications for the tea house owner and all depends on how (s)he defines her/his “business”.
I have very mixed feelings about this. I too emotionally long for a space without wifi however, if I’m being 100% honest, should I need to get some work done – I would not be happy to be prevented from bringing my ipad along. Perhaps an initial solution might be a room without wifi – sort of like the non-smoking section of restaurants years ago. Each tea shop owner would get immediate feedback about the interest of such a scenario in their exact location with their specific customers. Who would have thought that the day would come when one was prevented from smoking in all restaurants and bars? Who knows, perhaps we’d see that the wifi free sections were the most popular and everyone would evolve to being wifi free spaces. Stranger things could happen. Then we’d have separate wifi cafes to cater to those wanting/needing to be on-line and coffee and tea shops. I’m kind of liking that idea actually.
Michelle – the genesis of this post was when less than stellar service from Verizon tanked our wireless internet service over a weekend. Friday night we were dreading having to deal with customers over the weekend, especially the regular laptop warriors, disappointed that our WiFi was down.
Surprisingly, complaints were minimal. Those that really needed access for e-mails, etc. did so through their smart phones were otherwise productive on their laptops and tablets. Those who didn’t use WiFi anyway didn’t notice a difference.
Certainly not a definitive sampling of reactions but it did open the door to us considering the turn-the-WiFi-off during peak afternoon hours option.
That was an interesting experiment. Glad to hear you didn’t get more complaints so I think that’s promising. I hope you’ll keep us posted as you consider this option. I often wonder how tea/coffee shops are able to manage with someone staying for hours and buying 1 cup of tea. Is there an expectation that if people are waiting for a table, those not drinking should relinquish their seats? I know when I’m out for dinner and we’re done eating and just talking, we’re always aware of those who are on line waiting for a table.
Michelle, I have mixed feelings about this as well..
On the one hand, I would enjoy being able to browse the internet and work at my favorite tea shop. There’s so much to do these days!
On the other hand, the reason i frequent tea shops is for the ambiance, the *experience*. And, let’s face it, we’ve all sat beside that guy listening to loud YouTube videos on his laptop (yes, you have headphones on but I can still hear it!).
This may sound a little wonky, but perhaps only allowing Wi-Fi in certain areas of the shop would work? Kind of like the smoking/no-smoking areas we already have in restaurants. Everybody wins!
Great article Guy, it got me thinking of ways we can help preserve the tea ‘experience’ for the general public.